French...Lavender

In our latest chapter of functional perfumery, we're designing a "lavender" scent for fabric softener. I put that in quotations because this is an interesting part of the fragrance industry: the perfume should not actually smell like real lavender, but instead like something that the general public deems acceptable for a clothing residue. What is appropriate for the market changes depending on the target population, country, and product. (For instance, an American "chocolate" smell contains a lot more vanilla than a French one.) So even though the process of making a functional perfume is academic, our interpretations of lavender are pretty flexible. Mine has a good amount of coumarine (vanilla-like, but with a stronger hay aspect) and some light cedar notes, in addition to synthetic lavender-like products.

The next is unrelated, but despite my ENORMOUS frustrations with the red tape that wraps around all of France, there are some really great things about this country (cliche or not!):

• Paris in the springtime -- tulips and wisteria!
• the lack of, and lack of appreciation for, multi-tasking skills (ahhhh)
• accessible intellectual media: bookstores everywhere, philosophical debates on TV, loads of info about the current presidential candidates, great magazines like La Philosophie and L'Oeil (art)
• everyday sensuality (watch the part in Amelie where she goes around touching, cracking, and burying her hands in things just because of the way they feel)
• the amazing things they do with eggs: omelettes, crepes, etc. etc.
• as a friend so aptly put it, the spirit that is 1/2 refined, 1/2 bohemian. (that may be the best description of France I've ever heard!)

Spring Break in Spain 4

...and at the coast.

Spring Break in Spain 3

Barcelona, off the beaten path...

Spring Break in Spain 2

...to Barcelona! Gaudi doesn't get nearly enough credit.

Spring Break in Spain

from Madrid...

No Fragrance, No Life!

Sure it's a play on words, but I'm starting to understand how people can become totally consumed by the work they love. Especially when it's challenging. I thought perfumery was a 9 to 5 job, but it's not. If I really want to be good, I have to do a LOT of work (smelling, studying, re-thinking, formulating, calculating) outside of my classroom "office hours." The most striking thing about this course is how monolithic it has become. In college I had study breaks from the work, like student health meetings, campus events, the gym, piano, romance, etc. But for the first time I wake up thinking about one thing, and go to sleep thinking about one thing.

You don't put down your nose when you walk out the door.

Stock Exchange

Stock, as in, raw materials. Raw materials that we usually use in easy-drip recipes diluted in 10 % ethyl alcohol. Today was a different story. We're in the middle of functional perfumery, which is extremely involved, but in short it goes like this:

1. smell the fine fragrance you want to put into a cream, shower gel, etc.
2. try to recreate the formula in your lab
3. figure out how much each raw material is going to cost, so that you can replace the most expensive materials with cheaper substitutes (We're talking adjustments that go from 80 euros for the perfume formula to 8 euros for the shower gel formula. And remember, it should smell the same as the 80 euro formula. Uh-huh.)
4. reformulate substitutes for the expensive products (this takes days)
5. recreate the cheap version of the fine fragrance, that you will then add to said cream, shower gel, etc.
6. start over with the cheap version once you realize that some products cause allergies, that others will make the shower gel cloudy when the client wants it transparent, or that the spices that form the signature of your fine fragrance will turn it red, or that some of the materials in your substitutes can turn the plastic of the eventual shampoo bottle into mush
7. finish all that, then measure out the correct proportions of fragrance to shower gel and body cream (about .3 fragrance : 59.7 gel)
8. mix and pour into test bottles
9. put some bottles in the oven, put some bottles in the sun, leave some bottles at room temperature...
10. wait one to six months and make sure everything still smells, looks, and functions properly

After days and days of work, today we completed step 9. When we formulate the final fragrances that will go into the shampoos etc., you have to formulate in pure. So instead of using the easy-drip bottles (as I call them), you have to measure out crystals, powders, gels, liquids, sticky crystals that melt into liquid at room temperature...All of these consistencies leave a lot of room for error. (Hah!) Not to mention, working in pure is more expensive than working with dilutions. So everyone had to share the same bottles. We worked wildly to finish everything today, calling out names of products, passing bottles back and forth, and alternately swearing when powders and crystals blew all over the room. And this, my friends, is what sounded like the stock market all day long:

"Citral! Anybody need the citral!"
"Methyl anthranilate at 1%, somebody give me methyl anthranilate at 1!"
"Damnit, there's coumarine everywhere!"
"Be careful, that crystal melts if you spill it!"
"Where's the rosemary? I'm searching for rosemary, people."
"Camphene, looking for camphene, can anybody give me camphene?"
"Limonene, somebody show me limonene."

It was a true team effort and now I am exhausted. But I've got some real stuff to show for myself -- my own lotion, shower gel, and shampoo based on a perfume currently on the market. I just have to wait a month and make sure nothing will melt or turn red, and then I'm good to go!

Perfume Quotes

"Perfumers are chemists no more than is the painter who manipulates chemical colors." --E. Roudnitska

"Une femme sans parfum est une femme sans avenir." (A woman without perfume is a woman without a future.) --Coco Chanel

* * *

Perhaps a bit extreme, but amusing nonetheless. Perfumery is truly a methodical art. It is really not chemistry. And actually, a woman OR man without any perfume would be totally excluded from society, which could be the same thing as having no future. Consider the perfumes in soaps, creams, gels, sprays, cosmetics, disinfectants, detergents, and other mass market goods everyone buys in order to function in today's world. Even if you buy "unscented" or "fragrance free" products, they are still perfumed in order to mask the unpleasant odors of the base chemical(s). For example, a lot of laundry detergents smell fatty or even fishy before some kind of fragrance is added. Who wants their clean clothes to smell like seafood?

"Tasty" Accords and More

Today we're studying various "tasty" accords that are used in fragrances (not only in flavors)! This morning we did caramel and chocolate, which have high proportions of a synthetic buttery note called diacetyl. Later we'll do marshmallow, almond, and coconut.

Needless to say, everybody was hungry at 10 am. I made a dilution of one of my favorite products, ethyl maltol, which smells like caramel and red berries (and is in Angel by Thierry Mugler). The pure comes in powder form, so I crafted a funnel out of paper and tape since regular pipettes wouldn't do the job. Unfortunately, I sprayed powder everywhere in the process,including down my labcoat. At least I smell "tasty" now. At least I don't smell like extremely powerful straight melted butter. Somebody else took care of the diacetyl.

* * *

I read a really great book, Buddhism: Plain and Simple, by Steve Hagen. It was exciting because it outlined many concepts I already thought, from my other readings, my own experience, and my time in Japan. Read it and get back to me with your comments!

I can also recommend: My Sister's Keeper, The Glass Castle, Without Remorse (Tom Clancy), and its sequel Rainbow Six, which I just started.

First Evaluation

Today we had our first project evaluation (of fragrances created from a chosen visual image). I chose a magazine ad of a beautiful woman walking along a rocky beach in a yellow bikini. My final product was subtler (more subtle?) than I intended, but overall I was happy. I used ginger, nutmeg, and bergamote, along with many synthetic materials, to convey the warmth of sunshine, the fruitiness of suntan oil, and the freshness of saltwater spray.

The most exciting part was using little bottles with vaporizers to SPRAY our perfumes onto each other. (How authentic, whoo!) We tested everything on everybody's skin, from my beachy scent to Isabelle's horsey-animalic scent...and it was amazing how different they smelled on each person. The end result, however, is that we now all stink. I'm probably wearing 300 different and UNBLENDED chemicals. Some of us are going out for dinner to celebrate, and I have a feeling we'll get some evil eyes!

In other news, it snowed yesterday in Versailles. The wind is frigid, but the inch of white frosting was quite lovely.

Also, I am really excited about the opportunity to complete an internship this summer in Hamburg, Germany. (Unfortunately, I don't speak German...) but I'll be working with a British perfumer on whatever projects he is doing at the time. I got a tourist guide to Hamburg and it looks like a pretty summer city. There's a huge port for international trade (the town is not costal but was built around 2 large rivers), and a rather large number of foreigners, so I think it's fairly modern and cosmopolitan. Most of the buildings are modern, too, with lots of red brick, after old architecture was destroyed by fires and bombs... Now if I can just find another apartment!

It's cold and windy, I smell like a dying tree on a sunny day, and I'm late for dinner. :)

A plus! (Til next time!)

New Year's Weekend

...spent in Durham with some of my closest friends from college. It was SO nice to be home for the holidays!!

Here we are after a great round of karaoke. Thanks to Joey for the photo.

Laptop Life

I spent 5 hours (FIVE HOURS!) on the telephone with a very nice DELL representative to install a new hard drive for my laptop. After 5 hours and a flashing screen that left the technician--and I quote--"dumbfounded," everything seems to be up and running. However, due to an intense desire to keep my life simple, I will not be taking the computer back to France. I'll continue to use the school computers like I did before.

In some ways it's harder to live in France than in Japan, and for the next 6 months I want my life to be as hassle-free as possible so that I may focus on...perfume.

Blast from the Past, Part 2

So in honor of being in France, I decided to post some funny stories from my study abroad experience in Paris 3 years ago. When I lived with a host family, I wrote down things that made me laugh, and I just re-discovered the file on my parents' computer. They still crack me up today...so I hope you enjoy.

* * *

-I love looking at the little dogs in this city:

Katie to me: Lauren, I thought you were staring at a hot guy, but when I turned to look, I realized you were checking out a poodle.

-on a tour of a tiny village near the chateau Chantilly:

me to Lauren Merkeley: Lauren, have you noticed that there’s a weird man following us on the tour?

Lauren Merkeley: No way, really?

Me: Yeah, he’s been with us ever since we got off the bus!

Lauren Merkeley: You mean the bus driver?

(I crack up at my own stupidity.)

Zain to me: What are you girls laughing at? What’s so funny?

Lauren Merkely: Oh not much, just introducing a little logic.

-at dinner with my host family and their friends, who are all at least 65 years old:

friend to host mom: My friend’s daughter was on her honeymoon, and when she got to the island she called her mother to say she’d forgotten her luggage. But instead of sending it, her mom replied, “Dear, it’s your honeymoon; do you really need your suitcase??”

-at “home”:

host mom to me: What day should we eat together?

Me: I don’t know.

(host dad suggests a night to eat)

host mom to me: Ah, he’s right. Good idea.

host dad to me, joking: Of course I’m right—I’m a man! Men are always right!

host mom to me: Don’t listen to him, the old fool! (and she whacks him in the stomach with her spatula)

-at someone else’s house for dinner:

older man to me: I went to the US once, and in general I liked it, but you know what really got on my nerves? The clothes! Everyone there wears the brightest colors!

-my host family in Lyon, to everyone they introduced me to: And this is the little American that’s staying with us for the weekend!

-in a restaurant, the first time I met Steve (hot guy from Cornell who speaks French very well)

me: So how long have you been taking French?

Steve: Well, only for about a year. But I’ve been French-kissing for quite some time now.

-making fun of EDUCO people:

-Katie: I love Bahij, he cracks me up. But he’s a very simple guy.

Merkley: Simple? I think Bahij is complicated. Self-tanner, hello, that’s not simple!

-in my animation class, where the prof. always likes to discuss the philosophy of theater and animation

prof: (talking about something obscure) Yes, it is invisible, but it’s invisible for a very good reason: it doesn’t exist.

-the whole French-speaking population, to me at least every other day (literally): Excuse me, can you tell me where the nearest metro station is? Or where this street is? Or if this direction will get me to the train station? Or what time it is? Or where exactly this metro is going?

-my host father works in advertising, so he likes to discuss the giant ads in the metro stations

host dad to his wife and me: Have you seen the latest lingerie ad? Where the woman is wearing a bra that’s the exact same color as her skin? FREAKY!

-on the difficulty of relating to French guys:

Emily to me: Yeah, I’ll meet someone who’s hot, but then he’ll just go and do something French, and I won’t be attracted to him anymore.

-French woman to a friend of mine who’s Mormon (doesn’t drink), and who happens to dislike cheese: You’re in the wrong country, my friend.

-and the one that prob. tops them all:

Last night I was having dinner with my host family at their friend's house. They poured me a glass of wine that was made from vineyards at their "country house." Then the host-man started telling a story.

host: A few years ago someone thought our wine had a potato flavor.

host's wife: No, let me tell it. You do a horrible job of telling stories. So, a few years ago someone thought our wine had a potato flavor. And we said, "really?" Well how interesting. I"ve heard of fruit notes, wood notes, even burnt toast notes, but no potato notes. So we decided to examine the barrel of wine that this bottle had come from...and floating inside the wine was a drowned mouse! Haha! So mice must taste like potatoes!

host to me: So, what do you think of the wine?

HAHAHAHAHA :)

Winter Break Update

Now that I'm in North Carolina for a lovely 3-week vacation, I have some time AND an internet connection. I hope everyone had a great Christmas - mine was fantastic, even more enjoyable since I was in Japan last year! It feels really good to be home.

The first 'semester' of school ended quickly. Things in France were hectic and we had a big exam on the last day, which was interrupted by an emergency trip to the Prefecture for a temporary visa (so that I can return to France in January. The timing was awful but at least I GOT it!).

For the exam we were given about 15 raw materials that we had to identify and describe "from scratch," with no background or context clues. We had to list what types of perfumes they are appropriate for and why, their different rates of evaporation (volatility), and other properties related to perfumery. Basically, we had to know everything we've studied the past two months. Then we had to identify a few perfumes and discuss why they were 'landmarks.' It was very similar to an art history test, where you view slides, date and describe the work of art, then discuss the relevant art movement and its significance. (I knew perfumery was artistic, but I never realized the extent to which perfumers really are artists, until now!) I nailed all the perfumes, in part thanks to my grandmother. When I was younger Manana used to give me little bottles of L'Air du Temps. I'm sure you've seen the round bottles of yellow liquid with two flying doves on the top? This floral fragrance was launched after World War II and has a strong carnation note. I recognize it instantly because the second it hits my nose, an image of Manana pops into my head. I guess that was the confidence booster I needed because the rest came to me easily.

* * *

I've been called uptight before, but I thought there was one rule when it comes to cheating: you don't do it. For me it's not so much about being 'uptight' as being PROUD. I'm too proud to cheat. In some people's eyes, this just makes me conservative or 'prudish.' Here's a conversation I had with someone in my class:

John Doe: Well, we're getting a grade, but this exam is mostly an assesment for our own information. So we don't have to worry about cheating.

Me: What? Do you mean that if this test were more important, then you'd want to cheat?

John Doe: (no response)

...then, during the test...

John Doe: Do you think the answer is X?

Me: Don't ask me.

John Doe: Do you think the answer is X?

Me: Don't ask me.

What's WITH people? I don't care if I'm earning a GPA or not. I don't cheat. I don't see how anybody does so in good conscience. In any case, I'd always trust my own nose before somebody else's. Perfumery is in large part instinct, and I don't like to second-guess my guts. Why would somebody else?

* * *

Here's wishing everyone continued holiday spirit and a very happy New Year. Got any resolutions?

Class Photos

...compliments of Christian! The sophisticated lady without a labcoat is our instructor.

Tidbits

The cheapest raw material in the world is benzyl acetate, at about 3.50 euros per kilo. It's in quite a few floral notes, including jasmine, and smells like fake bananas. I recognize it as the product most likely to give me an instant headache. (Anything that ends in -ate can cause no small amout of pain if you inhale with too much enthusiasm).

The most expensive material is iris root absolute, at about 100,000.00 euros per kilo. Getting this fragrance takes up to six years while you wait for the roots to mature underground. It smells kind of floral, kind of plant-like, green, and mild, not what you'd imagine the 'Kohinor' of perfume materials to smell like!

Today we had a guest speaker who used to work for Chanel. He showed us some extremely old perfumes that are no longer on the market, such as one created 2,000 years ago called "Perfume Royale." Main ingredients? Honey, cinnamon, and cloves. Yum.

The Lab

Here are our mixing tables and a sample of the raw materials in the fridge. Most of the chemicals are liquids, but the powders, crystals and gums must be microwaved to make dilutions. Alcohol boils very easily, so we're talking 10 seconds max! The room with the fridges is SO smelly. It's not unpleasant but it's a real fruit-salad-soup, despite the fact that some materials are nestled Russian-doll-style inside three different containers.

Busy!

Thanks to all the faithful readers out there. :) My intention was to update my blog more frequently, but that is complicated by a number of factors - progress on my computer is slow to nonexistent, and I just plain don't have much time to hang around the school computer lab. But there are healthy consequences to this as well. The time I spend in front of a computer screen each day has decreased about 500%. And the time I spend with my nose in a bottle has increased about 900%. (Don't worry, I checked our chemicals against the FDA's toxicology list and all my brain cells should be intact). Perfumery is quite challenging and I'm tired at the end of every day. But the key is that I always want to wake up and come to school. Today we tried to construct a Thierry Mugler ANGEL-like accord. All the vanilla and chocolatey notes in this perfume made me hungry. But the chocolate effect comes from patchouli, not cocoa.

Versailles has been a great transition for me after Fuji...it's slightly bigger and my location is more central, with a beautiful lake 5 minutes away. The open-air markets are the icing on the cake. So while I still miss Japanese food and my daily dose of Mt. Fuji (not to mention my FRIENDS there!), as a small city Versailles feels like a step in the right direction.

Want to ask me questions? Feel free to post them in the comments!

A few photos of the lab (and maybe one of my roommate) are coming soon...

Perfume School 101

If you weren't lucky enough to receive a huge email from me (I say lucky with sarcasm, since it was too long for anyone to actually read), here's a more recent update...

First, I apologize for the lack of photos, but laptop problems persist and the school computers have no USB ports. Rest assured that when I have good pictures and am able to post them, I will.

Second, I love school. I spend about 7 hours a day in a small lab (with 7 other people from around the world) as we familiarize ourselves with raw materials (natural and synthetic), and learn about perfume families. This is more confusing than you might think. As scents become more modernized (read: more synthetic), the whole library of smells is growing, even while many synthetic products are replacing natural ones. More sources = more variation = more categories to organize. But to smell a chemical that is found nowhere in nature, that simultaneously evokes caramelized sugar, chocolate, cranberries, and raspberries...it is quite a heady experience.

Lately we've been working on creating floral accords from synthetics. Our teacher (a wonderful, kind, sophisticated, beautiful woman with wild coats) doles out numerous synthetic raw materials. We smell and describe each one, pencils flying as we try to make note of everything to study later. Then the teacher says, "Ok, now compose a rose." And we spend the rest of the afternoon diluting and mixing and re-mixing to find the right proportions of each material that will together produce a satisfying rose. Mine was a bit fruity, with a sweet note that lingered for days (a potential plus), and overall I was happy with it. What fascinates me is that anyone could identify it as a rose, though there was nothing natural about it.

(As a side note, "synthetic" does not mean it is never found in nature. Many synthetics are single molecules that occur naturally but are copied and built in a laboratory. For example, a molecule found in cloves can be isolated and then produced by people in a lab, without the rest of the cloves notes.)

The past few days were more challenging because we studied lilly of the valley. I don't have an image of lilly of the valley in my mind, which makes it difficult for me to whip one up out of synthetics. The other thing is that as new chemicals are created in labs, the market idea of what lilly of the valley smells like changes over time. So you can create different styles of this flower -- some greener (like cut grass) and fruitier; some softer and more floral, like baby powder or fabric softeners. Also, there is no natural version of lilly of the valley perfume. Despite all the available methods, it's impossible to obtain this flower's natural scent, so everything has to be synthesized.

Tomorrow we'll begin jasmine, which is my favorite floral note. It's a very complex, multi-faceted scent, but I already have an imagine in my mind of what the final product should smell like. I'm looking forward to breaking it down and learning about how each component works together. Jasmine is a white flower but it always makes me think of something three dimensional, sensual, and dark purple. And something that rotates on an axis. I have no idea why those images come to my mind, but anything that helps you remember a smell is a good thing. :)

Happy breathing...especially with the onset of fall!

Downtown Versailles

the flower market